Crazy Matatus, Maasai Warriors & Big 5 of Africa in Kenya.
by Lena
” Holy Matatu! “
Wow! What a crazy adventure this was! I can’t believe the amount of kind, honest, helpful, soulful people I have met here, in Kenya. I felt like I belonged, I felt at home.
People of this amazing country made me feel this way in every step of my journey here. Be it in places I was staying or on the streets of small towns. Everywhere you go you are welcomed and helped. What can I say, I’m hooked..
People and Nature of Masai Mara, Narok and Nairobi have left a big stamp on my life. My heart, mind and soul refuse to let them go…
- Traveled solo by several Matatu’s ( big and small, fast and crazy fast, dangerous and not ) from Nairobi -> Narok -> Maasai Mara and back.I refuse to come to Africa and jet from place to place with over the top safari gear, while butlers serve me a cup of coffee at my $1000 / per night luxury lodge. Then come home and tell everyone I’ve been to Africa.. really? Now, this is the REAL Africa and it’s people, it doesn’t get more real then that! Meet Matatu! I even came up with a new phrase — Holy Matatu! Seriously, I can bet anyone top dollar, that I am the only woman on the planet who can go from Hollywood red carpet in Beverly Hills –
to this Matatu in Kenya, in a blink of an eye.. and solo. I dare you!
- Met a lovely Kenyan lady Liliana on one of those Matatus, who replied to my, ” yes, I’m by myself on a matatu ” – ” Lady, you are CRAAAZYYY!!! ” in her beautiful accent. She has never seen a white person, especially a white woman by herself on one of those crazy things! : ) She asked me if I don’t mind being there and I replied ” Why should I mind, YOU don’t .. ” , she smiled and then added ” Now you are a TRUE KENYAN, now you are BLACK just like me ” — Now that’s what I call a real compliment!!
- We had a wonderful time, told stories, talked about our similarities and our differences, jokes and cried laughing about some of them. We parted friends and she invited me to her home as a guest, next time I’m in Kenya. — You don’t get this kind of experience and a story by flying over Kenya on a jet. ( I don’t care how low you get to fly )
- Stayed at the amazing camp in Masai Mara ” Oldarpoi Camp “
for a whopping $40/night ( everywhere else around National Park the prices start anywhere from $150-1500 or more per night, even though they breath the same air and see the same animals as the $40-$80 per night people … )Oldarpoi Camp is located right outside of the Masai Mara National Park,
with stunning views of ” The Mara ” ,
kind and helpful staff and with a home atmosphere to match… when you come here, you don’t come as a guest, you are welcomed as part of their family.. - The camp is solely owned by the local Masai community and aims to bring transformational development socially and economically to the local Masai communities, turning them into self-reliant and self-sustaining communities, through profitable eco-tourism activities. — I highly recommend it!
By the way, all the high-end or not so high-end booking agencies, will NEVER tell you about camps such as this one, ( this is coming from someone who studied Tourism & Hospitality Business for 2 years ) because they get BIG bucks for promoting the hell out of their $ 1000 per night lodges with silk bedding and butlers. But hey, to each their own I guess.
But if you happen to be on a budget and still want to experience the amazing Masai Mara then Oldarpoi Camp is for you.
You can read more about Oldarpoi in the New York Times HERE or Tripadvisor.It felt good that the money I spend there went directly to Masai people and their children and didn’t go into a pocket of some wealthy businessman who couldn’t care less about the community.
- Got to dance with Masai men and women
- Made fire from scratch
- Visited Masai Village and visited a traditional Masai home
- Got a present from Masai warrior
- Saw every animal imaginable & the Big 5 of Africa in the Kenya’s Maasai Mara Reserve, which has been named one of the new Seventh Wonders of the World.
- Our car got chased by a Lion
- Had a picnic in a bush
- Danced around campfire with my new friends at Oldarpoi
- Shared local food ” Ugali “ with Masai
- Taught a Masai Warrior how to drink Vodka in a traditional Russian way. ( not a lot of people actually know how to drink it, there’s a specific way of drinking Russian Vodka… )
- Learned about Masai culture and it’s people ( for example ; they still drink milk with blood and have as many wives as they can afford … )
- Learned that a Lion who wins in a fight with another Lion for his lady, will kill the first litter that he will have with her, to make sure the other Lion’s genes vanish.. Wild and brutal!
- Thought I won’t survive the ride in a matutu from Mara to Narok, since the driver was speeding like crazy, on roads similar to some roads in Costa Rica ( people who’ve been there, know what I mean ) But I’m too damn stubborn to back off and get myself a comfortable taxi.
- I was asked to stay longer, even for free, but I had to leave Mara, cause I had plane tickets to go to other 2 countries. If I didn’t, I would have stayed longer for sure!
- Dear, Fridah, thank you for the beautiful necklace, Dear David, thank you for the beautiful bracelet and Dear Rouben, thank you for pressing on gas fast and saving me from the lion.. All of you, have brought happiness and love to my life. Thank you!
- Met a really helpful and kind young man on my matatu from Masai Mara to Narok, who helped me find my way around town and who said ” It’s nice to help ” He asked me If I’m afraid to which I replied ” I trust you “
- I was the only white person and the only traveler walking in Narok and in some parts of Nairobi.
- Saw the most beautiful view of Kenya at the Mai Mahiu with a sign that reads : ” Third World View, Welcome ” I laughed, because most “first world” countries would kill for a view like that!
- Met some amazing people at my now favorite Oasis in Kenya — Wildebeest Camp It’s a one of a kind place and I won’t stay anywhere else, next time I’m in Nairobi. It’s a peaceful and beautiful Oasis in the middle of a crazy busy city. I stayed here for $30 something per night ( you can even get a room here or a tent for even less than $ 30, but be sure to book early with them ) & breakfast included…
- Spend a night listening to music, talking, drinking, laughing with incredibly interesting people, who’s travel stories are way more interesting then mine! We had a blast! It felt so good to talk to people who are as passionate about travel, people, countries, adventure and world as I am.
- Tried some blue colored shots, that I sworn will never drink again! : )
Here’s my favorite Kenyan story –
If you click on any business, be it hotel or bar in Kenya on trip advisor’s site from USA it gives you an official warning about crime and safety issues in Kenya…
Well let me tell you just how ” unsafe ” it is …
This is a true story –
When i was staying at Oldarpoi camp in Masai Mara, I lost my torch that was a gift and it was special to me, however it wasn’t the end of the world and it was just a torch after all ..
With those thoughts I made my way from Masai Mara to Nairobi, where I was staying for 1 night at Wildebeest camp, before I had to fly to Zanzibar, Tanzania the following day. In the morning I was informed that someone came by from Masai Mara (Oldarpoi Camp) at 6 am and dropped of my lost torch!
What?!! Are you kidding me? Isn’t this the scary Kenya we are talking about?! Seriously, Nelson ( owner ) send one of his staff to DRIVE all the way from Mara to Nairobi ( about 5 hours if you’re lucky, so make it 10, cause he has to go back to Oldarpoi same day ) for my torch!
I couldn’t believe my eyes when I saw that god damn torch!
There, that’s the TRUE HEART of KENYA and Kenyan’s for ya! And I have met ONLY helpful and truly AMAZING people in Kenya!
ASANTE SANA KENYA!
NAKUPENDA !
October 2011
Wow, these photos are amazing! Thank you for sharing.
Thank you, and I’m admiring your work..
sounds like you had a lot of fun here!
Thanks for reading! Love your photography!
Thanks for reading my post. I have ALWAYS wanted to see the Serengeti/Tanzania…and everyone says the same thing – too dangerous. You have proven them all wrong! Great blog EL!
Thank you so much for your comment! ” Too Dangerous ” is a really bad case of disinformation.. Don’t let that “political crap” stop you from living the life you want and seeing the world!
love & light
EL
Amazing pictures! I was debating on whether I should go to Kenya or Senegal. Think I will go to Kenya now. Thanks for sharing!
You should go to both! ; )
Thank you for stopping by Juliet! You will truly fall in love with Kenya and it’s people!
bon voyage!
el
Every post I read inspires me more and more in my dream to becoming a Spiritual World Traveler!!
Thank you, Soul Sister! <3
Z
Sounds like you had a fantastic time! It’s wonderful to hear some great stories instead of all the scary ones. I’ve long since wanted to visit Kenya, but have only seen the inside of Nairobi Airport – too many times!! Time to get out there :)
You should, Absolutely! Don’t let stupid “cliches” and others agendas stop you from exploring this amazing country!
el
The photos are wonderful! (my favorite is the b&w of the man from Nairobi). It must have been a true journey! :D
Thank you! My god, that man has some spirit! He liked his picture being taken .. he had teary eyes when I shook his hand, said thank you in Swahili & gave him dollars afterwards..
I walked away with tears in my own eyes..
It’s mind-boggling to me, that such powerful and beautiful country doesn’t take care of people like him.. who have less than nothing.. sad. But then again, America also has many men, women and children in the same boat as this man in Nairobi.
el
I love this post! So much heart and love and talking about love, I love your photos here. I have to read again soon because Africa is one place I have been thinking about visiting since I was a child and I am just scared to go. I love to travel solo although I don’t mind traveling with friends also. Luxe is great but sometimes I think about the REAL experience and it really isn’t about what you pay, but how you experience…
Lisa, thank you for a wonderful comment! It is so true what you said
” it really isn’t about what you pay, but how you experience…” .. couldn’t have said it better!
Don’t be afraid ! You will not want to ever leave, once you get there! Seriously, every single person who visited the “real” Africa… and not the tour packaged with tour buses, always goes back .. always..
love & light
el
Such beautiful pictures, and sounds like a beautiful place to visit.
Thanks for sharing that dream. many blessings to you!
Thanks for sharing these. This so inspires me to visit Africa…
More and more I’m sure that tourism, when it comes to business, has absolutely nothing to do with knowing other countries and other people… The way you travel… this is not tourism, so how could we call it? Just traveling? Sometimes I think that even just “living” would be fair enough ;) Instead of “I went to Kenya for tourism” or “I’ve been traveling to Kenya”… the proper way is just… “I’ve been living Kenya for a while”… =)
PS: In the upper menu of your blog I can see almost every part of the world… but it’s still missing South America!!! =D (yes yes, always when possible I’m promoting Brazil and our neighbors countries. :)
What a lovely comment! Thank you! Loved the way you said it!
by the way, did I tell you how much I loved living in Kenya for a while?! .. ; ) Yes, unfortunately tourism has taken the magic of travel out of the equation…now it’s all about numbers and profit. I’m glad to meet people online from all over the world, who still believe in the magic of real travel and share their vision with everyone through their online homes : )
ps – South America!! Oh, if you only knew how much I want to visit S. America ! And I will! I’m thinking of taking a year off and just going traveling… Brazil will be my first country I visit!! Promote away! South America holds so much beauty and culture that it must be promoted!
el
Thanks for your great posts about Kenya and Tanzania. I’m going there soon, so I feel very inspired by all your stories and photos. Thanks!
Wow, top story Elena! Ann
You just asseverated my impression of Africa: that it is one beautiful country amid all the not-so-good stories I heard about. I envy you … I just can’t help it. :-(
Beautiful Works & Words, Thank you for sharing your journeys with
us. We really appreciate your perspective. Sending lots of good
energy and vibes from sunny Miami. http://wp.me/AJ5G
Sooooo cool! :D What an amazing trip! Beautiful photos too! :D
Useful and interesting information and very nice photos!
best wishes!
Really wonderful story and great piccies! Ann
I don’t think there are many people for whom someone would drive 5 (ok, 10) hours to return a torch to:) That says something about the person you are. Something about your slavic spirit which left an impression on the Kenyans you met? Your travel accounts are very compellingly told.
I was in Kenya way way back (early 80′s) when I was a student, building a school for the Masai tribes near Nanyuki- yes, literally heaving and hoisting logs etc…- through a Third World Charity at my univ. I haven’t yet been back to Kenya, though have recently visited Ethiopia, (you might find this amusing: http://piaregan.wordpress.com/2012/04/06/tigrai-rock-hewn-churches-up-cliffs-and-four-middle-aged-ladies/) and I sense you would love Harar in Ethiopia.
But, back to Kenya, I remember the Masai women especially working very hard, carrying babies on their backs while hauling logs singlehanded, which would require three of us white women to handle, while their (beautiful) menfolk would hang around looking at their reflections in little mirrors they carried with them. Memorable. In fact, you’ve just given me an idea: to dig out my old photo album and scan some of those photos and post them on my blog… спасибо :)
Thank you for your comment and kind words. I was floored when they told me someone came from Masai Mara.. still can’t believe it.. and this small torch of mine means that much more to me now..
I will read your story asap..
ps – agree, women in Kenya have more balls then their men.. I don’t know how they do it..
How do i bring myself to go to the office tomorrow after reading these!
EL, thanks for stopping by my blog! I am super excited about going to Kenya this summer – this will be my first trip to Africa – and I really enjoyed reading this post about your time in Kenya. Beautiful pictures!
Wow! What a read. I’m all smiles and honored by these kind words about my motherland.
“From red carpet to a matatu” That describes a great, humble heart. The people’s kindness are a blessing to you.
The media covers the negative and this genuine experiences are the honest depictions of Kenya.
I’d be honored to meet you the next time you visit. Recently I’ve been travelling within our country and I’d be very delighted to give you a tour as you teach me how to properly drink Russian vodka :)
Feel much welcome again and consider having a home here. All the best dear.
Warm Regards,
Evans Gichomo.
mail egichomo[at]gmail[dot]com
Thank you for your wonderful comment! I forever love Kenya!!
el
[...] Men in Cairo also kept asking if I’m married .. My answer was that I have a boyfriend and that they should get in line right after The Masai Warrior who wanted me to be his 11th wife… [...]
If you hadn’t already been to my dream place, Egypt, I’d ask if you’d want to go again sometime! Hey, where haven’t you been? Always looking for a travel partner!
I think you will enjoy this post .. –> /2012/05/22/friendship-belly-dancing-sandstorm-and-a-wedding/
love & light
el
[...] and homeless people… Man from Nairobi. [...]
….amazing… thanks for sharing… nothing like Africa!!! g*
Amazing description and nothing is like Africa i think this is your memorable journey
[...] know, all those Masai Warriors alone are somewhat [...]
[...] spend a night there. At 5 in morning take Post Bus to Kampala ( about 12 hours ) and catch a local Matatu from Kampala to Etebbe ( 40 minutes ). Spend 1 night in Entebbe and then fly to Morocco, with 1 [...]
Love this post. I spent a month in Kenya. I was in Maseno for two weeks and Misumo for the other 2 weeks. I met some of the most amazing people there. I went almost 4 years ago and I still talk to one of my friends from there regularly. I miss it. During my stay in Kisumo I helped with a school project and a little boy at the school who spent a lot of time following me around defended me. A little girl called me a mzungo and the little boy said, “You are not a mzungo. You are African like me!” That was one of the most memorable moments of my trip.
I’ve also been to Egypt for 2 weeks, and Zambia for 3. All of which were incredible experiences. I can’t wait to see more of the world. I love your love for life outside the western world’s expectations assumptions. Keep traveling. Thanks for checking out my blog. Asante sana my fellow mzungo.
[...] 5 at the Masai Mara National Park ( UNESCO World Heritage site ) was extraordinary! But having a Masai Warrior save me from almost being Lion’s dinner… was, well, honestly, it was an experience I [...]
Glad you liked Kenya, I like it too. Being born here thought I don’t think I can help that fact though, haha, thank you for looking at my blog! Karibu tena!
Nice stories
Friendly
Alain
http://kenyasauvage.wordpress.com/
Wow this looks amazing. I am going to Kenya in August and I am now even more excited! Looks like you had an amazing experience!