Living vs Visiting
by Elena Levon
Marrakech Sunset
Since this was my second time in Marrakech this year, I was basically going back with the knowledge of a local.
But because I don’t speak French or Arabic well enough, it resulted in a fight with a cab driver, who dared to demand
50 euros…
That didn’t turn out so well for him.
An amateur hassler trying to hassle a pro.. ha! Good luck to him!
Was able to negotiate a ride to my Riad with a different driver for 8 bucks.
When I arrived at my Riad ( 5 minutes walking distance to the main square in Marrakech ) I could not believe my eyes!
Riad Dar Jirane is breathtakingly gorgeous and serene.
Still can not believe that I got to live in my own Le Petit Palais.
There are only 4 rooms in this beautiful palace-like private home. Number 1 is the most luxurious suite.
Dar Jirane has private garden and rooftop terrace where you can relax and sunbathe.
This Riad is full of photographs of famous French actors and even relatives of French Presidents who stayed here.
My room was # 2
I truly did live and travel through Morocco like a local.
My solo, 1 month journey through Morocco – Marrakech, Merzouga, Erg Chebbi dunes, Fes, Chefchaouen, Tangier..
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I tried to spend all my time with locals and experienced the true Moroccan rhythm…
Where the days are lazy and nights are filled with delicious food, colorful shows and passionate beats.
While tourists who came to Marrakech for a few days, run around in the unbearable heat, from one tripadvisor item to the next, I slowly made my way to my favorite small local cafe.
Saying hello to everyone who works there and then ordering ” the usual “. I sat outside in a shade, watching life go by.
In order to survive Moroccan heat you need water !
However if you live here you know, that 3 liters ( 2 bottles ) will cost you LESS than $1..
not $ 2 or $ 3 for 1.5 liters ( 1 bottle ) like they sell to visitors.
After breakfast / brunch, I would meet with my now friends whom I met back in March and we would all sit outside their tour office,
chatting, telling jokes and stories.
Tourists stormed in, crazy eyed, looking for another tour they want to jam into their already overflowing itinerary. And I drunk mint tea, observing the whole “play” from a front row…
The most easily duped ones are:
1st place is awarded to Asians, 2nd – Americans and 3rd – Europeans.
It was fascinating to watch “behind the curtain” life of the theater that is Marrakech.
I could spend hours and hours getting lost in small alleys and souks of one of the most fascinating city’s in the world …
Then return to my private palace, sit outside in my garden, write about my adventure in Uganda & then enjoy the city from the rooftop.
Listening to the song-like prayer from the nearby mosque and trying to learn French by speaking with Fatima, wonderful lady who lives and works in Riad.
As the night slowly takes over Marrakech, local residents dress up and go out for dinner.
“Blue Hour” in Jemma El Fna square.
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” Moroccan Night “
A cat-like shadow emerges from darkness.
Slowly making her way to the feast…
Her gracefully independent solo walk is a seductive dance, of an untamed beast.
Wrapped in mystery and broken promises,
She’s leaving behind intoxicating cloud of exotic scents…
Vanille, sandalwood, spices, tobacco, lace and incense.
She hears men trying to get her attention…
Smiles,
But doesn’t look in their direction.
She’s being led by the invisible string of the night…
The only thing she sees,
Is a lustful, decadent and chaotic light…
© Elena Levon 12/12/12
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self-portrait
I went to Jemma El Fna almost every night and sat with local men and women, at my now favorite crowded table.
When I sat down, 3 cooks knew right away what I wanted and the only words I had to say were Bonjour and Merci.
My table was situated right next to tables where tourists eat.. it’s almost the same .. the only difference is the price ..
For the price of one dollar I left the table extremely full …
* A bowl of Harira Soup – it is a tomato based spiced chickpea soup with lentils and pasta flavored with coriander, parsley, lemon, cinnamon, saffron, and ginger.
* 2 small ( I promise, they were small ) portions of sesame and honey SHEBBAKIA – it is simply, Heaven of pastries !!
Even though Mr. Bond noticed the difference in my silhouette, when he saw me a month later, I don’t regret a thing! … or should I say an inch! : )
After dinner I would make my way to a place where I was sang ” Happy Birthday “ in March of 2012…
KOSYBAR
I became good friends with the owner, staff and a few of regulars.
Had some fun times here.
I got so heavy from Moroccan pastry, that even 4 guys couldn’t hold me…
It is a very intimate place. Service is top notch. And food… mmmm!
You have to try their Chocolate fondue!
I even got a beautiful bracelet from one of the guys who work there.
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The main difference of living in a place vs visiting it for a few days
is the fact that you will experience not just the beauty of the Rose…
but it’s thorns as well…
I was robbed…
yep.. ( first time while on the road and in one of my favorite countries )
Unintentional decision of taking a longer road home at night, by mistake, cost me an iphone, a few bruises, seeing the inside of a Marrakech police station and a hell of a story …
( which I will leave for my future book… )
Fatima from my Riad was very nice and took care of me for the next few days.
I felt crushed.
But I refused to exchange the faces of all those people who brought me so much joy, for a bunch of desperate hoodlums.
iphone is only a thing, bruises will heal and hearts of all my friends, who became my Moroccan family will continue to love me.
Their love outweighs all the thorns…
But to truly heal inside and out, I needed one more thing …
PS – Happy 12 / 12 / 12 to all of my co-pirates…Thank you for sailing with me!
_____________________
The woman behind the words …
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You express the heart of the place well, Elena. And you are so right about “living” vs. visiting. I had that experience in Scotland and will always consider it as a home.
Hi Elena, you had quite an adventure! Sorry about the misfortune of being robbed but at least you live to tell the tale.i want to thank you for following and may this year greet you and welcome you with blessings and promises.
A true wanderer. beautiful pages of a travelers’s diary!
Marrakech -I have friends that have been there and they have shown me how spicy the place is … colors.
Wonderful to hear from you and travel with you again.
A magical post with interesting and fun photos. You have brought warmth and spices to my very cold evening around -10C just now.
it felt good writing it, since I’m here in Moscow in a similar – C situation ..
I can image that is cold over there too. Are you staying over the festival times ???
will be here until middle of January
Nicely done. I just might have to follow in your footsteps to Marrakech. Thanks for all of the “insider” info.
thanks for sharing the ups and the downs of Marrakech. May the smiling faces and wonderful hospitality of the locals always outweigh the money-grabbing taxi drivers (not all) and the rip-off merchants in the memory of its visitors…. I am sorry about your negative experiences but I am glad you managed to see the positive side of my adopted country!
it is still my favorite country …
loved the post as always but concerned as to what happened.
i’m a tough cookie! ; )
I know that, Miss tough cookie
hugs. But be careful. Caution is the better part of valor 
I don’t wanna lose my wellspring of inspiration. Hugs Lena
very nices pictures
Lovely pictures and story as always, bumps and bruises and stolen possessions included. Glad everything turned out alright in the end!
Beautiful!
Loving that I get to travel your journeys with you! Thank you; beautiful story
[...] try to not only visit a country, but actually LIVE there, be it for a few years, a month or for several [...]
I never understood people who try to cram entire countries in a few days, running from the tour Eiffel to Notre Dame to then hop on the train and check out Big Ben. As if collecting a certain number of countries is a badge of honor! You are doing it the right way. There is so much satisfaction in going back somewhere you loved and find the food, the friends and the atmosphere still there, waiting for you. Have fun wherever you are now!
What a wonderful blog! Def. a fan now. I wish I could travel out of the country, but I can never seem to raise enough funds to do so. Thank you for sharing your adventures!
God, this is spectacular! It sounds like you’re having a wonderful time.
Great insight! I hope I can visit that exotic destination soon
Great post. Wow, 50 euros for the short can ride to downtown Marrakech was quite original. Glad you gave him a hard time…
Loving the story so far – it is the only way to see a country and you get to do it at a reasonable price.
Bags packed. Am on my way. Thanks!
That’s such a great way to see a place! I’m stuck between having a limited time to travel and an unlimited number of places I want to visit. Will definitely be checking out your booking website tip for accommodation, and reading along to get other great ideas for things to see and do that might not be on every tourist’s agenda.
inspiring. as always
inspiring as always.
Nice Pics and a great adventure indeed.
Hi! I like your blog very much and I nominated you for the Sunshine Award. If you wish to participate, follow the steps outlined on my post by clicking on the following link: http://timelessdifference.com/2012/12/13/the-sunshine-award/ . Whether you join in or not, I think your blog is amazing! Dea
Wow, Elena, I admire your pluck. Good for you!!! … Travelling is changing for me. I’m embracing the idea of simply being in a new place rather than doing all the sites. First of all, I’m taking care of my health this way and second, as you have so eloquently stated, we miss a lot of what is real about a location when we don’t allow ourselves to simply “be” there to experience it as a local would. … Thanks for sharing and inspiring … Be well, Dorothy
to simply “be” while traveling teaches me how to simply “be” when i’m not… i still have a lot to learn : ) thank you for your comment !
love
el
Hah, two visits does not equal living like a local
maybe not, but the second time I lived there for one month.
what means “living” in a place for you?
One month is a good amount of time, if you can
i was in Morocco for more than one month this year
safe travels to you
good to see you are back writing again.
Beautiful photo of the sunset. I look forward to reading the rest of your blog!
~L
Amazing photos! Thanks for sharing.
Beautiful photos!
thank you for sharing them!
That is really cool.
Reblogged this on i cittadini prima di tutto.
I totally agree with you, Elena. I love experiencing a place like I live there.
I know! in the end, what stays in our hearts is not exactly UNESCO sites, but moments we spend with locals .. : ) at least, for me.. It’s an honor to know that you read me : )
love
el
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Love your blog ! I have an award for you at my place. Please stop by and check it out ! Bella
http://bellaremyphotography.com/2012/12/13/time-to-celebrate/
Gorgeous pictures & insightful post! Thank you for sharing the good and the bad.
Experiences of liviing and travelling are versatile. At any place one may both enjoy it or be frustrated. One may live among the visible beauties of nature and under the unbearable life conditions. I like “wild” places to be with someone there. Such places can be found anywhere, even in the vicinity. : )
nice : )
Awesome post… It’s been a while since I traveled internationally, but it is such a more enriching experience to get away from the typical “tourist” mentality and truly dive into the culture and environment – I miss being able to do that. “Moroccan Night” is splendid! Sorry to hear of your troubles, but you are a resilient soul. Stay safe on your journey – look forward to your next post.
Thank you! Great having you with me on my journey! : )
Great photos and nice post! I was in Morocco for only a long weekend from Spain and didn’t get to see nearly enough. Gotta get back!
Great post Elena! I have been in Morrocco a few times for work, but the best time was when I spent a couple of weeks there with a friend who was born and raised there…spoke fluent French and Arabic…got to see the inside which is worth a lot as you say. Thanks again
Elena, Thank you so much for visiting and like my blog. I’m entranced by your photos and look forward to seeing more!
Lovely post & lovely shots.I wasn’t conscious of it but reading your post made me aware that I too “live” rather than “visit” when I travel – and that is what makes all my trips so grand. I am sorry you got robbed but your wherewithal is amazing – as you are.
Reblogged this on panalyah's Blog and commented:
Time to run away to Marrakech perhaps?
Great post! I’m heading to Marrakesh myself next week and now I can’t wait!
Elena, great stories, great pics …and great tips! Thanks so much. Which pic is of you??
? what’s your guess ?
Hi Elena – I have nominated your blog for the “Reality and Shine On Award”. You can find the details at http://tinylessonsblog.com/2012/12/18/another-early-xmas-gift-thank-you/. Congrats!
Elena, I also hold Morocco very dear to my heart. Wonderful vibes, a great mix of color and smell, a wonderful balance of relaxation and trepidation … Your posts are so beautiful. Keep traveling and keep writing. I come along…
The spell of beauty you’ve infused this piece with goes beyond style… stuffed with a rich cultural insight… so fragrant to read. Amazing pictures throughout.
Beautiful photos and intriguing tales! So glad you found another cabbie, heh heh…
ELENA!!! omg omg omg- i searched for u. Basically damon the demon said u guys had a horrific fight downstairs of hotel. Remember i lost my phone and got it back on the Sunday from the taxi driver. Anyway it died on me. Cut a long story short- after Marrakech i didnt have the same email nor number. I had no contact for u, and the demon had ur details thru linkedin but wouldn’t have me have it as he didn’t want me to be in touch. Well back in London- i need to speak to you, i enjoyed our amazing time in Marrakech (i have so many amaze photos too)- so write to me now and i’ll call u later…saoussanmt@gmail.com
Masee xxxxx
Daaamnnn girl! : )) Masee!! So happy you found me! why the hell wouldn’t he give you my email? Anyway, doesn’t matter! You found me anyway! : )) I too had an amazing time with you!!! Can’t wait to see the pics! : ) all my love, Lena ps – will email you soon
I’d love to join you next time.